White Rioja: Spain’s Quiet Wine Revolution

How regulatory change, climate awareness, varietal diversity, and innovation in the winery are reshaping Rioja’s white wine identity.

Rioja is, of course, a region best known for its internationally recognised red wines, defined by the familiar ageing categories of Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. This reputation is well earned: 91% of Rioja’s vineyard plantings are dedicated to black grape varieties, with just 9% given over to white grapes.

However, following my visit to the region in November 2025 – where I had the privilege of attending the Rioja Wine Academy Educator Course* – it was the white wines that surprised me the most.

This would uncharacteristically seem that I have my palate on the pulse, as white Rioja featured in Bibendum’s recent Wine Trend report for 2026. A trend for white wines over red may not be a major surprise, with international consumption of red decreasing relative to white, but dig a little deeper, and it becomes clear that changing drinking habits are only part of the story.

A Regulatory Rethink

Much of the momentum behind white Rioja can be traced back to the region’s governing body, the Consejo Regulador DOCa Rioja. In 2008, the approval of new white grape varieties reignited interest in Rioja’s white wines, marking a decisive change in direction.

This move was particularly significant given the dramatic decline in white grape plantings over the previous decades. In 1985, white varieties accounted for 9,094 hectares, roughly 25% of Rioja’s vineyards. By 2012, that figure had fallen by almost 50%, down to just 3,764 hectares, representing a mere 6% of total plantings.

Recognising the need for renewal, the Rioja Strategic Plan launched in 2005 introduced a new policy focused on white wines. This led to the inclusion of six new authorised white varieties in 2007 and the allocation of 2,500 new hectares in 2009, reserved exclusively for white grapes. These vineyards began producing fruit in 2013.

The results have been dramatic. By the 2023 harvest, white grape vineyard surface area had grown to 6,123 hectares. At the same time, wineries began releasing a new generation of diverse, high-quality white wines. Critics have gone so far as to describe this transformation as “the greatest wine revolution in recent years in Spain”.

As quality and reputation have risen, so too have sales. In 2023, Rioja sold 27 million litres of white wine, an 80% increase over the past decade. This growth reflects a highly successful strategy of renewal and diversification. (Consejo Regulador Rioja DOCa)

The Climate and Varieties

Climate change is now firmly at the forefront of producers’ minds, making access to a broad range of grape varieties a crucial advantage. Rioja’s diversity is a key strength in this regard.

The region is divided into three sub-regions, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta, and Rioja Oriental, each shaped by a combination of Atlantic, Mediterranean, and continental influences. Among them, Rioja Oriental stands out for white wine production, thanks to its clay-ferrous and alluvial soils. This climatic and geological diversity allows producers to adapt to rising temperatures while continuing to craft balanced, expressive, and age-worthy wines.

Producers are currently permitted to work with nine white grape varieties. The dominant signature grape is Viura, which accounts for over two-thirds of all white plantings. It is complemented by lesser-known local varieties such as Malvasia de Rioja, Garnacha Blanca, and the recently discovered Tempranillo Blanco, a natural mutation of red Tempranillo.

Other permitted varieties include Maturana Blanco, the oldest recorded grape in the region, the rare Turruntés (also known as Albillo Mayor), and Verdejo, best known from Rueda. In addition, Rioja allows a limited selection of international varieties, including Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, further expanding producers’ options in a changing climate.

The Future

With such a diverse mix of grape varieties, Rioja’s winemakers are also embracing a broad range of techniques to produce a wide range of styles. White Rioja is no longer defined solely by ‘fermentado en barrica’ (barrel fermentation), although not to dismiss these wines, particularly the Remírez de Ganuza Blanco Reserva 2020 mentioned in the 2026 report.

Instead, a more nuanced, terroir-driven, and fruit-focused approach is emerging, with increasing use of amphora, concrete, and restrained oak. This was particularly noticeable from a visit to Bibendum supplier, Vivanco. Their ties to history couldn’t be more obvious, with the outstanding wine museum they have curated over the last century.

That said, they continue to innovate in the winery, with a particular favourite being the Blanco de Guarda, a blend of four varietals: 40% Garnacha Blanca, 30% Maturana Blanca, 20% Tempranillo Blanco, and 10% Viura. Cool individual fermentations, small steel tanks, and only a small percentage of large old oak are used to produce an elegant but outstanding age-worthy white. There are many more great wines and wineries, but there’s not enough space to mention them all!

With a rising global demand for white wine, combined with Rioja’s progressive approach to origin through classifications such as Vinos de Pueblo, Vinos de Zona, and Viñedo Singular, consumer perception is being reshaped. As drinkers look beyond the familiar in search of distinctive expressions, white Rioja appears uniquely well positioned to thrive.

Vamos Blanco de Rioja!

*For more information on the Rioja Wine Academy, visit: https://riojawineacademy.com/en/home