Bibendum's Oldest Vines

Does age really matter? When it comes to vines, the question of if and how their age ultimately impacts the wine, is still very much up for debate. While there is no legal definition for ‘old vines’, it is now widely accepted that we have a lot to learn from them. Whether it be how they impact the quality of grapes or even if they can help to mitigate the impacts of climate change, the importance of research into old vines cannot be understated.  

At Bibendum we are fortunate to not only have producers that are home to old vines (older than 120 in some cases!), but also those who are dedicated to old vine research and sharing their findings with the global wine community. 

To celebrate old vines in all their gnarly beauty, we have surveyed our producers to find the top 5 oldest vines in the Bibendum portfolio. But it’s not just about the age, it’s also about what we have learnt from them. 

So without further ado, here are the top 5 oldest vines, and what they have taught us. 

The Top 5 Oldest Vines

#5  Catena Wines 

Age: 96 years old 

Variety: Malbec

Region: Mendoza, Argentina

Wine: Catena Zapata and other Malbecs

Founder of Catena, Nicolas Zapata – also known as the father of Argentinian wine – is credited to have discovered the potential of high altitude Malbec, thus forever changing Argentinian wine. 

In 1995, his daughter Dr. Laura Catena founded the Catena Institute of Wine (CIW), to further the research and discovery made by her father, and gain a deeper understanding of their terroir through their old vines. Bodega Catena Zapata is home to pre-phylloxera Malbec vines that are more than 90 years old. These vines not only mark the historic significance of Nicolas’s high-altitude endeavour – planted at 920 metres above sea level in Mendoza’s foothills – but also have been instrumental to the institutes ground-breaking research. 

Soon after its creation, the CIW led the first massale and clonal selection of pre-phylloxera Malbec in the world, as well as in-depth studies of high-altitude terroir. Much of the research undertaken at the CIW surrounds cuttings from the historic Angelica vineyard, named after Laura's Grandmother by her grandfather, Domingo, after Angelica tragically died in a car accident.

The vineyard is considered their ‘constant teacher’, in the words of Adrianna Catena (Laura’s sister who is also heavily involved in the winery). Each generation of winemakers in the Catena family has made their mark in this vineyard: from Domingo Catena establishing it in honour of his late wife, to Nicolas unlocking the remarkable potential of Malbec at high altitude, through to Laura’s commitment to researching the clones within. Under Laura’s leadership the CIW has collaborated with key universities locally and globally, including UC Davis, the University of Bordeaux, and University of Burgundy, with 30+ articles published in major scientific wine journals. All furthering our understanding of Malbec clones, high altitude viticulture, and even how to mitigate the effects of climate change. In 2023 Dr. Laura Catena was awarded the inaugural Old Vine Hero award for her pioneering work. 

Read more about the Angelica vineyard and its unique history in Adrianna Catena’s article for Jancis Robinson here. 

#4 Masseria Borgo Dei Trulli

Age: 100 years old 

Region: Garantita DOCG, Puglia 

Grape variety: Primitivo

Wine: Signor P Primitivo di Manduria DOCG Dolce Naturale

Masseria Borgo Dei Trulli lies in the southern region of Puglia, where the vines grow across a mosaic of terroirs, with differing soil types and cooling influences.

Their oldest vines are Primitivo and are found in a small 0.5 ha parcel in Roselle near the winery, in the commune of Maruggio. They are “Alberelli Pugliesi”, otherwise known as free-standing bush vines. The average yield of their plants is less than 300g per plant, which contributes to the intense concentration of fruit in the wine ‘Signor P Primitivo di Manduria’.  The grapes are generally harvested in the second half of September, when the grapes have reached the right level of natural appassimento, losing approximately 50% of their water content. Each vintage, only 500 bottes are produced from these old vines.

#3 Bodegas Estevez

Age: 110 years old 

Grape Variety: Mencia

Region: Bierzo, Spain

Wine: Versos de Valtuille Paraje La Vitoriana

The region of El Bierzo is renowned for having the highest concentration of old vineyards by surface area in all of Europe. This particular vineyard at Bodegas Estevez is approximately 4000 ha, made up of a mosaic of small plots with different soil types. 

Since ancient times, Mencia has been cultivated in Bierzo and survived the phylloxera crisis that swept through Spain and the rest of Europe towards the end of the 19^th century. Mencia is not as productive as other native varieties, with early sprouting and maturation.

Bodegas Estevez’s core philosophy is to respect their history and only intervene when necessary. This is evident in their deep commitment to protecting and preserving their old vines, as they are integral to the story of their land.  They believe that these vines have endured, adapted, and learned to speak the language of the land more fluently than any human at the vineyard. Their approach to farming treats the vines as if they were one of their own children; gentle, thoughtful farming, encouraging balance rather than forcing vigour, so that the vines can continue to express their quiet wisdom in every bottle.

#2 Longavi

Age: 110-120 years old 

Region: Bio Bio Valley, Chile 

Grape varieties: Grenache, Mouvedre and Pais

Wine: Glup Rosado & Glup Pais

The old vines in Chile are protected by small groups of independent family farmers in the south, who have been working across the Maule, Itata and Bio Bio for many generations, passing down knowledge of the land and vines.

It is believed that when they use old vines, they are honouring their patrimonial viticulture and culture – it is not just about the grapes, but it’s about protecting the lifestyle, countryside and its traditions.

The old vines are what gives these wines their personality, character and unique taste. As Longavi continues to plant new vineyards, they plant them in the same way as their old vines – as bush vines and treated with dry farming. While they don’t know how much longer their old vines will live, they wish to plant vines to leave old vines for future generations.

#1 Valdivieso 

Age: 124 years old 

Variety: Cabernet Franc

Region: Maipo Valley, Chile

Wines: Valdivieso Single Vineyard 'Fundo La Primavera' Cabernet Franc

Valdivieso has a rich history dating back to 1879, starting life as the first sparkling wine house in South America.

Today it produces both still and sparkling wines and has established itself as a leading winery in Chile. They are now under the leadership of Head Winemaker, Brett Jackson, originally from New Zealand. The quality and unique attributes of their terroir are expressed in their single vineyard wines.

The Valdivieso Single Vineyard 'Fundo La Primavera' Cabernet Franc is made using their old vines from a single vineyard. It has a distinct concentration of fruit and have remarkable aging potential.