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Burgundy Day 4: Potel, Bohrmann, Gouges and more
November 17th, 2009

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(Wiffy and wobbly: just like the Bibendum team)

You are, as they say, what you eat. This is probably truer in Burgundy than anywhere else. The jambon persille has turned us slightly green and jellified around the edges, our cheeks wobble like the piggy versions braised for us chez Grivot and there is a faint whiff of over-ripe cheese everywhere we go.

Our current fromage du jour is not Epoisses but Brillat-Savarin, appropriately enough the cheese that takes its name from the French epicure and essayist who originally wrote “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.” In the case of L’Equipe Bibendum the answer is quite clearly a group of ultra-greedy English wine merchants pigging out on French charcuterie rather than doing any real work.

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(Nicholas Potel has fun with his new jeroboam catapult)

Only we are doing some real work. Twenty-five unfinished barrel samples, many of which have yet to go through malo, do not make an ideal breakfast; especially when one’s host is Nicolas Potel. Nicky P doesn’t do early mornings and he appeared rather bleary eyed for our appointment at his smart new cellars in Beaune. He is a man who prefers the hours of darkness to 8am and we were honoured by his presence at such an ungodly hour.

Having split from the owners of his old negociant arm earlier in the year, Nicolas is in the process of rebuilding his work. Amazingly, he has already built up an incredible portfolio using many of the growers he used before. Importantly, the quality has not dipped and his 2008s are very good indeed. We were especially impressed with his whites, the pick of the bunch being a superb, mineral-laden Puligny-Montrachet Villages. His Le Montrachet wasn’t too shabby either.

However, perhaps the best white of the day came at our final stop, Domaine Bohrmann. Sofie Bohrmann is doing an incredible job here, investing in all the right places and ensuring every vintage is better than the last. The St Romain monopole Clos sous le Chateau is stunning – open, ripe and floral with beautifully balanced acidity. It will be brilliant value too.

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We spent the rest of the day up in the Cote de Nuits visiting three excellent domaines: Henri Gouges in Nuits, Hudelot-Noellat in Vougeot and Laurent Ponsot in Morey St-Denis. The reds at all three had finished their malolactic fermentations and all showed very well indeed. Gouges’ wines were pure, vivid and sappy with crisp fruit and exceptionally well managed tannins. Hoodly-Noodly’s were forward and juicy with sweet cherry fruit to the fore and finally Ponsot’s were knock-your-socks-off good.

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(Ponsot’s “they don’t make them like they used to” basket press – ordered in 1939, delivered in 1945)

Laurent Ponsot is one of the most controversial figures in Burgundy making wines that live on the edge. His approach is incredibly natural and laissez-faire using massive, open top wooden fermenters, pre-war basket presses, very old oak and minimal sulphur. But when the wines were as exciting and electrifying as these, it is very hard to argue with his methods. There were some real ‘wow’ wines among the six or so we tasted from generic Bourgogne right up to Clos de Beze. His 1er Cru Morey St Denis Blanc made from ninety-seven year old Aligote vines was another eye opener in what was a fascinating tasting.

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With 288 wines tasted and noted in four days, we have has a pretty good look at the 2008 vintage and are generally very happy with what we have tasted. As I have written already, the whites have lots of forward fruit but counter this with crisp, incisive acidity. The reds are perhaps more varied but the highs are potentially very high indeed. We tasted several wines at the likes of Grivot, Hudelot-Noellat, Gouges, Drouhin-Laroze and Ponsot to suggest that 2008 is definitely a vintage that deserves some very close attention. Roll on January.

Five Wines We Loved This Week

St Romain Clos sous le Chateau Domaine Bohrmann 2008 – this really is a special little vineyard and anyone who loves white Burgundy should buy a case to drink over the next three or four years

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes Domaine Matrot 2008 – Very sure footed and confident with spiced apple fruit, white flowers and freshly squeezed lemon on the finish.

Nuits St George 1er Cru Les Pruliers Domaine Jean Grivot 2008 – Nuits is definitely a village to watch in 2008 and this was mouth-watering, savoury and structured with deep black cherry fruit. Very promising indeed.

Nuits St George 1er Cru Les St Georges Domaine Henri Gouges 2008 – Rich and forward without any sweetness or heaviness. Silky, feminine and elegant.

Cremant de Bourgogne Domaine Bohrmann NV – The last wine we tasted on tour and the perfect way to wash away the week. Bubbles rock.

By Dan
Entry Filed under: Burgundy, En Primeur, Fine wine

Comments

2 Comments Add your own

  • 1. Frankie  |  February 2nd, 2010 at 4:56 pm

    hi Sir/madam,

    I am coming from Hong Kong and would like to visit yr cellar at 17 Feb.
    Pls adv if i hv this opportunity to go to yr cellar in that date .

    Looking forward to hearing yr soonest reply.

    Best regards
    Frankie Wong

  • 2. Dan  |  February 3rd, 2010 at 10:17 am

    Hi Frankie
    I have passed your details on to our team that looks after Hong Kong customers and they will be in touch soon.

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